2005 Domaine Geantet-Pansiot Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru

From a rocky, thinly-soiled spot in the “true” Charmes (rather than the sometimes equally grand but distinctive Mazoyeres that can also be sold as “Charmes”), the Geantet-Pansiot 2005 Charmes Chambertin delivers a lovely meld of bright cherry, beef marrow, cocoa powder, and chalk. A typically sleek, polished, long-lined performance for this appellation at its best, this isn’t a wine with lots of nooks and crannies. There is a superb sweetness and clarity of finishing fruit along with a vibrant if hard to describe mineral note. There could scarcely be a more stark contrast in microclimate or vinous character between this wine and the Poissenot. Vincent Geantet as usual bottled well before year’s end, and his wines seemed to be having a particularly expressive, fruit-filled day when I tasted. Interestingly, much as he bottles all of his wines together, so, Geantet’s barrel regimen is the same regardless of appellation: one-third each of new, one-year and two-year wood. He prolonged the pre-fermentative maceration to eight days, which seems to have enhanced the brightness of fruit exhibited by these wines. I must say I did not come prepared for quite such an impressive collection as that which Geantet delivered. Importer: Kysela Pere et Fils, Winchester, VA; tel. (540) 722 9228

Bright ruby-red. Deep aromas of blackberry and licorice; at once riper and more brooding than the last couple of wines. Then juicy, spicy and vibrant but quite closed in the middle palate, with superb energy to the dark berry and violet flavors. Finishes impressively broad, ripe and dry, with substantial tongue-dusting tannins and excellent length. This one also needs a solid six to eight years of cellaring.

From a rocky, thinly-soiled spot in the “true” Charmes (rather than the sometimes equally grand but distinctive Mazoyeres that can also be sold as “Charmes”), the Geantet-Pansiot 2005 Charmes Chambertin delivers a lovely meld of bright cherry, beef marrow, cocoa powder, and chalk. A typically sleek, polished, long-lined performance for this appellation at its best, this isn’t a wine with lots of nooks and crannies. There is a superb sweetness and clarity of finishing fruit along with a vibrant if hard to describe mineral note. There could scarcely be a more stark contrast in microclimate or vinous character between this wine and the Poissenot. Jun 2007, www.robertparker.com