2009 No Girls Syrah La Paciencia Vineyard

Baron’s 2009 No Girls Syrah – from his young Paciencia Vineyard and an officially separate winery (for more about which see my review of the corresponding Grenache) – sojourned in older barriques but was moved to tank early. “I think we would have lost some of the aromatics and freshness if we would have left it in barrel,” notes Baron’s assistant, Elizabeth Bourcier. Scents of red meat, basil, hibiscus, cherry, and blueberry along with a whiff of wood smoke establish the themes for a satisfyingly juicy and expansive but in no way heavy palate presence. A bite of black pepper, invigorating crunch of berry seeds, and saliva-inducing salinity add to the fruity exuberance and savory meatiness of a memorably long, luscious finish. If you want to taste proof of Baron’s assertion that there need be no dip in quality after the third leaf of young vines, look no further! This ought to be worth following for at least half a dozen years. Co-owned by Christophe Baron and Cayuse’s long-time general manager, Trevor Dorland, No Girls is a winery devoted to showcasing Baron’s young Paciencia Vineyard vines. Baron expressed the hope to, by means of releases under a separate label, offer an opportunity for those stuck on the huge Cayuse waiting list. Granted, 160-some cases of this won’t go far – and I have it on more than Baron’s say-so that the inaugural offering of No Girls was fully subscribed within half an hour – but as the (no doubt aptly named!) Paciencia vineyard matures there will be somewhat larger volumes. (Incidentally, No Girls takes its name and label photo from a decades-old inscription found painted inside the dilapidated former hotel Baron bought in downtown Walla Walla to alert potential patrons that the establishment’s protocol had changed. Hence the motto: “Real Wine, No Tricks.”) Tel. (509) 525-9787