1994 Clarendon Hills Shiraz Astralis

The 1994 Astralis (Shiraz) was opened after a big tasting of 20 something Clarendon Hills wines. Proprietor Roman insisted on sitting with it until it was ready to taste. "Now you can. This wine is going hysterical," he said. This is the first vintage produced under the Astralis name. It smells bloody and fantastic: cocoa and pork crackling, five spice, star anise, raspberry and blood plum. There are notes of black pudding, earthy mushrooms and layers of silty tannin. It has settled now, 15 minutes or so after being poured. At 28 years old, the wine is vibrant and pure, wrapped in hoisin and clove. A gorgeous, elegant wine. 100% new French oak, 100% whole bunch.