2016 Hermitage Le Chevalier de Sterimberg

Light bright yellow. Powerful, mineral-driven orchard and pit fruit aromas are complemented by hints of lemon curd, iodine and pungent flowers. Intense, palate-staining pear, nectarine and Meyer lemon flavors show excellent concentration and focus, and a candied ginger flourish adds spicy cut. Spreads out steadily on an extremely long, floral-tinged finish that emphatically echoes the pit fruit and mineral notes.

The 2016 Hermitage Le Chevalier De Sterimberg Blanc is terrific, and has a full-bodied, rich yet racy style that plays in the style of the domaine. Two-thirds Marsanne and one-third Roussanne (with is a change due to the hail), it’s rounded and concentrated on the palate, with bright acidity as well as classic salty minerality and notes of brioche, pineapple, and toasted hazelnuts. This estate always makes a more fresh, vibrant Hermitage Blanc, but this one backs it up with plenty of depth and concentration. If anyone had any doubts about the incredible turn around in quality this estate has seen since being taken over by Caroline Frey and winemaker Jacques Desvernois in 2006, these latest 2015s should put those doubts to rest. This is unquestionably the finest set of releases I’ve tasted from the estate, and the top reds rival, and in a number of cases surpass, the 2009s and 2010s. While the lineup remains relatively unchanged, the La Petite Chapelle has been done away with and is replaced by the La Maison Bleue cuvee, which driven by vineyards located on the eastern side of Hermitage Hill, as opposed to being a second wine for the La Chapelle cuvee. I continue to think the whites could use more richness and opulence, yet they’re impeccably made and carry their fresher, vibrant style nicely.

Hail limited production of Jaboulet’s white Hermitage in 2016. There’s no La Chapelle Blanc, but the 2016 Hermitage Blanc Le Chevalier de Sterimberg is a fine effort. It’s honeyed upfront, with notes of toasted marshmallow and fresh pineapple that expand and fill the mouth with flavor, then finish long, mingling with citrus zest, spice and brine.