2005 Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon Bin 707

The 2005 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon was aged for 16 months in 100% new American oak hogsheads. Already complex aromatically, scents of cedar, sage, clove, mineral, black currant, and blackberry waft from the glass. Smooth, layered, and bordering on opulent, this will be a long-lived Cabernet which should drink well for 25 years. Penfolds produces a bevy of excellent value-priced wines, many of which were reviewed in Issue 178. Importer: Southcorp Wines USA; www.penfolds.com.au

Inky ruby. Powerful blackberry and cassis aromas are complemented by sexy mocha and oak spices. Sweet and sappy, offering lush dark berry preserve flavors and fully absorbed tannins. A very seductive wine with a velvety texture and noteworthy finishing clarity and cling. I'd love to see this alongside some Napa cult wines.

Very dark crimson with bright rim. Rich and heady – more South Australia (this is the wine based on the ancient Kalimna Vineyard that they claim contains the oldest Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the world but the wine may also contain fruit from Barossa, Coonawarra, McLaren Vale, Padthaway and the newer vineyards at Robe and Bordertown nowadays) than Cabernet on the nose. Round and flattering with spice and richness on the mid palate but with a very dry finish. Chewy and at this stage pretty hard work. Again like sucking gravel. Not opulent – determined to keep rigour and gather its skirts about it… pursing its lips. Not a hint of obvious eucalyptus about it but some interesting rich nutty notes. Talking of which, what has that talented Gago chappie got to say? He’s seeking chocolate character as 707's trademark and manages to find 'cocoa bean (Mocha Kenya)' in the nose. Good on ‘im. It’s certainly a very well-made wine indeed with clearly a great future ahead of it. Lock this one away for a decade, folks. There’s a very tight, almost austere finish but no obvious oak. (JR)