2009 Pavillon de Chavannes Côte de Brouilly Cuvée des Ambassades

Bright red. Assertive aromas of raspberry and cherry, with deeper tobacco, violet and anise qualities and a mounting floral nuance. Juicy, pliant and expansive, displaying energetic red and dark berry flavors and notes of musky herbs and spices. Offers a compelling blend of depth and energy, finishing with very good clarity and spicy persistence.

The Chavannes 2009 Cote de Brouilly Cuvee des Ambassades (their prestige bottling, price notwithstanding) is complexly scented with red currant, kirsch, fresh blackberry, violet, and lavender. Firm and bright on the palate, it offers hints of crushed stone, salt, and beef juices, along with pungent herbs and tart berry skin, leading to a long, fascinating, if understated finish. Don’t look for the sweet overt ripeness or exuberance more characteristic of the vintage here – and I wouldn’t doubt that the wine really is under 13% alcohol as its “12.5” inscription intimates – but follow this excellent value over the next 3-4 years and you will be richly rewarded by a versatile dinner companion. The Jambon family’s Domaine du Pavillon de Chavannes emerged as part of an amicable generational parting of the ways in the lineage of Chateau Thivin, which explains why they share almost identical 1920s label designs. Importer: Vintage 59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966 9218