2016 Quinta do Soalheiro - Primeiras Vinhas Alvarinho

The 2016 Alvarinho Primeiras Vinhas is partly (15%) oak aged for six months in used French barrels and comes in at 13% alcohol. There were 30,000 bottles produced from 40-year-old vines—the property's "first vines." A nice bargain, this bottling is in fine form again this issue. It is not always head-and-shoulders above the regular Alvarinho (if at all—often, I like the regular better), but it has a different, more elegant style. The regular tends to be a touch green at times and more intense, with a tenser finish. This is subtler. The oak is fairly modest, so that's not an issue—it does not get in the way. What you get is a graceful Alvarinho that is remarkably understated, always about finesse but very persistent and fresh. Let the fruit sit on your tongue and see how rich it feels—even though nothing about this wine is really rich. This is nicely done, as always. I've found that they tend to do better with a little age, so it might round into form and be better at this time next year. It helps to taste them the next day too. It does seem, though, to be a step or two behind the 2015, granting that they are not side by side.