2010 Domaine Font de Michelle Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée Etienne Gonnet

Another outstanding effort is the 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Etienne Gonnet, which displays loads of black currants, licorice, olives, and roasted herbs. Deep, full-bodied flavors, sweet tannin and an attractively sumptuous mouthfeel and a long finish. It should drink beautifully young (as it already is) and evolve for 12-15+ years. This is a strong showing from the children of the Gonnet brothers. They have turned out deliciously fragrant, sexy, plump 2010s that will not be among the longest lasting of wines from Chateauneuf du Pape, but they have exceptional purity, impressive balance, and are all slightly different in style. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, New York, NY; tel. (212) 239-1275

Even better and a blend 65% Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 15% Mourvedre that is a selection of old vines, the 2010 Cuvée Etienne Gonnet is more ripe and powerful than the traditional cuvee, yet still shows fantastic poise, elegance, and finesse. Possessing aromas of plum, meat juice, licorice, pepper, and hints of violets, it hits the palate with a voluptuous, rounded texture, excellent freshness, and full-bodied richness. It too will have 10-15 years of prime drinking.

Mid to dark crimson. Hint of sweat. Very sweet but a bit simple. Not much structure. Very chewy end. A bit gangly and awkward. (JR)