2010 Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve des Deux Frères

Inky ruby. Assertive scents of black and blue fruit liqueur and incense show lovely clarity and take on spicecake and cola qualities with air. Lush, palate-coating blueberry and cassis flavors are braced by juicy acidity and pick up energy in the glass. Rich, vibrant and precise, finishing on a suave floral pastille note, with mounting tannins and superb clarity and length.

The 2010 Chateauneuf du Pape Reserve des Deux Freres is composed of 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah, and came in at 15.5% alcohol. In most vintages, this is basically the same cuvee as the Mon Aieul but with more press wine and the use of small new oak casks for aging the Syrah component. Approximately 30% stems were used in the fermentation. The 2010 is closed and nearly inaccessible at present. Full-bodied and massive with an inky/purple color, it reveals notes of smoked meats, blackberries, blueberries, flowers and subtle toast in the background. An enormous unctuosity and viscosity give the wine a palate gripping mouthfeel as the tannins are coated with glycerin. This brilliant wine needs at least 5-7 years of cellaring, and should keep for three decades thereafter. This branch of the Usseglio family left their home in Italy following the Great Depression in 1929 to make a new start producing wine in southern France. This estate has been on “fire” qualitatively since 1998. The cellars of brothers Jean-Pierre and Thierry Usseglio, who own approximately 60 acres of vines, are located adjacent to the ruins of a pope’s palace on the northeastern side of the village. In top vintages, such as 2010, 2009 and 2007, three Chateauneuf du Pape cuvees are produced. These include a traditional cuvee, the old vine, tank- and foudre-aged Mon Aieul and the more modern-styled Reserve des Deux Freres. Lirac is on the acquisition list of many Chateauneuf du Pape proprietors for a number of reasons: (1) they live close by; (2)the terroir is not dissimilar from that of Chateauneuf du Pape; and (3) the land is relatively cheap. The 2010 Chateauneuf du Papes are superb. Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173