1990 Château Palmer

Velvety tannins, perfumed floral nose, opening to cedar, mint leaf, red cherry puree, all expanding outwards through the palate, with finely boned tannins adding a touch of control. Plenty of tertiary notes of truffles, campfire smoke and saffron-laced spices, but the fruit is still very much in tact. As it opens further you get intense aromatics of violet and exotic spices. You could sit with this for hours, just enjoying how finessed Cabernet Sauvignon can become with age - and how the clay that underpins the gravels on so much of Palmer's vineyard has helped keep freshness. Exceptional, and it has been delivering at this level for at least a decade. Unusual for Palmer to have all four varieties in the blend (Cabernet Franc is the one that is typically missing), giving an extra reason to mark out the 1990 vintage. Harvest September 18 to October 6. Same owners as today - a joint venture between the Mahler-Besse and Sichel families.

Tasted at the Château Palmer vertical in London, I confess that maybe I've been harsh towards the 1990 Château Palmer in the past, since it never quite matched the sublime 1989. However, this represents the finest bottle that I have encountered. The nose is complex with red cherries, allspice and sous-bois, tertiary scents developing as it opens in the glass. The palate is medium-bodied with fine balance, not the most complex 1990 and not a patch on say Château Margaux 1990, yet there is precision here and a pleasant savory finish that maintains precision. I cannot envisage it improving further, but you would not throw your rattle out of the pram if a bottle landed on your table. Tasted May 2015.

Magnum. Deep ruby. Completely rich, sweet and gorgeous with a hint of graphite on the nose. Beautiful lift and elegance but on the finish it was a real throat warmer. Just my sort of wine. But after 45 minutes or so, it lost a bit of fruit in the glass and the acidity became much more obvious, suggesting it may not have that much more to give, even from a magnum. (JR)