1945 Château Margaux

The 1945 Château Margaux has never been regarded as a top-tier 1945, though this is perhaps the best of three bottles tasted over the years. Timid, at first, it needs little encouragement to reveal very pure red fruit, antique furniture, sous-bois and wilted rose petal scents. It gradually becomes more and more Margaux-like. The palate is medium-bodied with fine-boned tannins. It's not a powerful wine like Mouton or La Mission, but it oddly reminds me of a Saint-Julien. The 1945 has a lovely balance and fans out gently toward the finish. Like a beautifully bone china vase. Tasted at Medlar restaurant to celebrate the publication of "The Complete Bordeaux" (NM)

Still has firm tannins, but you can feel the delicacy and grace as it opens up and shows cedar, cigar box and chocolate-scented berry flavors. The tannins are scarcely more obtrusive here than with the other first growths.--1945 horizontal. WineSpectator.com