2011 Lokoya Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain

(this fruit was the last to be picked in 2011): Deep medium ruby. Explosive aromas of blackberry, blueberry, licorice pastille, menthol, spices and bay leaf. Fat, sweet and densely packed, with a low-acid impression to the concentrated flavors of black fruits, licorice pastille, mint and oregano. Here the wine's green notes contribute complexity without detracting from the fruit. Finishes with very suave tannins for the vintage and excellent length. A terrific showing.

More crushed stone, mulberry, black currant, lead pencil shavings and wet pebble-like notes emerge from the 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain. This beauty possesses great intensity, full-bodied power, low acidity and sweet tannin. It can be drunk now and over the next 12-15 years. Lokoya has long been one of the bright shining stars in the Kendall-Jackson Small Estates portfolio. The fact that all four of their 2011 Cabernets were among the best wines I tasted in this vintage reflects many things, among them, (1) the exceptional commitment to quality, (2) the brilliance of the vineyards and winemaker Christopher Carpenter, (3) these mountain vineyards were less affected by the challenging weather conditions of rain and fog in early and mid-October, and (4) the winemaking team had the patience to wait for perfect ripeness before harvesting these limited production cuvees. The production is even smaller than usual in 2011, ranging from 200 cases for the Diamond Mountain and Spring Mountain, 260 cases for the Howell Mountain and 840 cases for the prodigious Mt. Veeder. Tel. (707) 948-1968

Lokoya's 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain is another striking wine from Chris Carpenter. Mocha, plums and cassis wrap around the palate in a gorgeous, inky Cabernet endowed with gorgeous textural depth and pure volume. Layers of flavor build in the glass in a rich, sumptuous wine endowed with superb depth. The fruit is so rich there is almost no sensation of mountain tannin, which is highly unusual for Howell Mountain, especially in 2011. A deep, plush finish laced with pencil shavings, graphite, plums and smoke leaves a lasting impression. I imagine the 2011 will enjoy a long and broad drinking window once the tannins start to soften.