2000 Philip Togni Cabernet Sauvignon Estate

The 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate is flat out gorgeous. Silky and aromatic, the 2000 impresses with nuance and freshness. It is not a huge or powerful wine, instead what stands out is the wine's total sense of balance. Medium in body and supremely gracious, the 2000 has so much to offer. The cooler growing season yielded more of a mid-weight feeling of structure. Well stored bottles will drink well for another twenty years.

The 2000 Cabernet Sauvignon Estate (Togni holds back a small quantity of each vintage to release a decade later) represents a wonderful introduction into how well his wines age. 2000 was a very challenging vintage on Spring Mountain, but this wine possesses a gorgeous bouquet of cedarwood, plums, blueberries and black currants. In the mouth, some tannin is still noticeable, the weight is similar to the 2009's, and the wine may be just beginning to dry out slightly. Nevertheless, this 2000 reveals a Bordeaux-like personality with slightly ramped up ripeness in the nose. It should continue to drink well for another 5-6 years. The venerable Philip Togni continues to build an impressive resume on Spring Mountain where he produces long-lived red wines as well as a tiny quantity of a remarkable, sweet elixir from Black Muscat grapes, the Ca Togni. Tel. (707) 963-3731; Fax (707) 963-9186

Dark red with an amber edge. Open nose offers aromas of currant, plum, smoked meat, roast coffee and game. Then plummy and spicy in the mouth, with distinctly Bordeaux-like notes of tobacco leaf, licorice and fresh herbs. Stylish but rather slight, with a restrained sweetness, and a bit streaky with acidity. Finishes with dusty tannins. I'd drink this library release soon. For his part, Togni describes the wine as St. Julien-like, "whereas it's usually more in the Pauillac style."