2003 Saxum James Berry Vineyard Bone Rock

(15.7% alcohol; mostly from south-facing vines in the highest, rockiest part of the property; includes bits of grenache and mourvedre) Bright ruby-red. Musky, wild aromas of black cherry, gunflint and espresso. Hugely ripe but still youthfully closed following the March bottling. Today this conveys more of an impression of surmaturite than the other 2003 releases and a bit less inner-mouth energy. But this is compellingly rich wine. Interestingly, Smith told me that he blended in a bit of fruit from the lower, cooler parts of the property, from vines harvested as much as six weeks later, and that he intends to do more of this in the future.