2002 Lokoya Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder

Good full ruby. Elemental, extremely primary nose features grapey blackberry, licorice and violet pastille. Big, sweet, broad and creamy; a huge, powerful wine with slightly rustic flavors of dark chocolate and minerals. Finishes with compelling sweetness of fruit, and very broad tannins that arrive late. From a block of vines that was recently torn out due to phylloxera. The richest of this trio of cabernets. Winemaker Chris Carpenter notes that the intention here is to make three wines of place by using "neutral" winemaking techniques. "The only difference among the wines is maceration times," he added. All three of these bottlings are close to 15% alcohol.

Deep ruby. Cassis, violet, licorice and espresso on the nose. Intensely flavored and sharply delineated, with lovely early sweetness and excellent volume. Powerful flavors of berry liqueur and violet. Winemaker Chris Carpenter uses 100% new barrels that he describes as "soft." The wine's tannins, he says, come entirely from the fruit. Finishes firmly tannic and very long. A very strong showing.

Absolutely perfect, the 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Mt. Veeder comes from a terroir that seems to produce magical wines (for example, 1997 and 2001). Aged in 100% new French oak with malolactic in barrel and no fining or filtration, this 2002 came in at 15% alcohol. Prodigious notes of incense, lead pencil shavings, black raspberry liqueur, blueberries, blackberries and cassis give this wine a stunning perfume. Full-bodied, opulent, voluptuously textured and built like a skyscraper on the mid-palate and finish, this is profound mountain Cabernet Sauvignon that should hit its peak in 5-7 years and last for 30 years thereafter. Wow! Kudos to Chris Carpenter and the Jackson Family. Jun 2012, www.robertparker.com