1990 Château Trotanoy

Thyme, mint, fennel, liqourice, cloves, dried herbs all spiral up out of the glass. The tannins are melted but still succulent, and this feels earthy and rooted, with concentration to the black cherry and cassis core even at 31 years old. A ton of colour still, this remains relatively young and shows just how impressive a wine Trotanoy is, with a creamy texture that makes you want to dive right in, with ash and hearth smoke as it opens. At the time Trotanoy was being made in a more traditional way than today - meaning there was less plot selection, and harvests would have swept from one side of the vineyard to the other - but it was being overseen by the supremely talented Jean-Claude Berrouet, and located on the same exceptional soils. This has muscles and grip, and gets better every time you go back to the glass. An incredible wine that you will want to share. Owned by the Moueix family since 1953.

Mid garnet. Masses of fine tannins. Very sweet and soft. Lovely fully mature, lifted bouquet with some iodine and masses of sumptuousness. Glorious texture and impossible to dislike. Gamey and succulent with a little dustiness on the finish. (JR)

Tasted at the Trotanoy vertical in Hong Kong, the 1990 Trotanoy has long been a superior wine to the 1989. Here it has a gorgeous bouquet with blackberries, mulberry truffle and clove, demonstrating commendable vigor given its age. The palate is medium-bodied with a fine line of acidity, but quite firm in structure, robed in velvety tannins that gently grip the mouth. There is very fine density here, building towards a muscular finish that displays the style of Trotanoy with much more confidence than the 1989, which seems almost meek by comparison. It is now beginning to reach its peak so there is no need to cellar for longer, yet I can see this drinking well for another 15-20 years. Tasted November 2016.