2004 Vérité Le Désir

(14.7% alcohol): Bright medium ruby. Kirsch, mocha and brown spices on the nose. Large-scaled, rich, sweet and powerful; can't quite match the nuance of La Joie but boasts powerful medicinal reserve. Today this is almost more Pauillac in style than La Joie, no doubt due to its sizable and very firm Cabernet Franc component. Finishes classically dry, with explosive black cherry fruit. All three of these Verité wines possess terrific energy, but this one is the most backward of the trio.

(14.7% alcohol): Bright medium ruby. Kirsch , mocha and brown spices on the nose. Large-scaled, rich, sweet and powerful; can't quite match the nuance of La Joie but boasts powerful medicinal reserve. Today this is almost more Pauillac in style than La Joie, no doubt due to its sizable and very firm Cabernet Franc component. Finishes classically dry, with explosive black cherry fruit. All three of these Verité wines possess terrific energy, but this one is the most backward of the trio.

The first truly profound Le Desir, the 2004, a blend of 49% Merlot, 47% Cabernet Franc and 4% Cabernet Sauvignon, exhibits the deepest, most concentrated and multidimensional personality of the first five vintages of this cuvee. A dense plum/purple color is accompanied by notes of graphite, forest floor, unsmoked cigar tobacco, licorice and fruitcake. Full-bodied, layered and opulent, it can be drunk now or cellared for 10+ years. Tel. (800) 273-0177; Fax (707) 431-1261