1997 Domaine Mongeard-Mugneret Echézeaux Vieilles Vignes Grand Cru

Crafted from vines planted in 1929 and 1931 (the latter were grubbed prior to the 1998 vintage), the ruby-colored 1997 Echezeaux Vieilles Vignes has perfume, pit fruits, and black cherries in its aromas. This iodine, blackberry, licorice, and tar-flavored offering is full-bodied, muscular, and thick. Its velvety-textured personality is masculine and highly-structured. Projected maturity: 2002-2008. Vincent Mongeard, who now runs this famous estate, is extremely happy with his 1997s. "When I compare my wines to those of my colleagues, I am comforted in what I was able to achieve. Even though it is not the vintage of the century, it is certainly extremely good." Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel (205) 980-8802.