1989 Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Cadettes

The 1989 Château La Nerthe Châteauneuf-du-Pape Cuvée des Cadettes wasn?t as big a departure from the Burgundies as you would think. Showing complex aromas of smoky, herbed dark fruits, tobacco, dried meats, leather and licorice on the nose; if not for the tobacco and meaty/herb character, this would pass undetected in a blind lineup of mature Burgs. The silky smooth palate was medium bodied with ripe fruit, a layered texture and a long finish. In the middle of its drinking window from Magnum, I would lineup any 750s from drinking over the near term.

Fashioned from a blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, and 10% Syrah, the 1989 is dense and firm, but it never seemed the same after an aggressive fining and filtration partially denuded this cuvee. Dugas admits that these earlier vintages were intensely filtered, and the percentage of new oak utilized was higher. Since the late nineties, filtration has been eliminated and the amount of new oak reduced, both encouraging developments. The wine reveals a more international as opposed to southern Rhone style, but it is still a very good wine. The fully mature 1989 needs to be drunk. The top cuvee of the most majestic estate in Chateauneuf du Pape, Chateau de la Nerthe, the Cuvee des Cadettes is only made in the finest years. The ideal production desired by administrator Alain Dugas is 1,000-1,500 cases. The blend changes from year to year, but it generally includes a high percentage of Mourvedre. Importer: Clicquot Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575

Fashioned from a blend of 60% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, and 10% Syrah, the 1989 is dense and firm, but it never seemed the same after an aggressive fining and filtration partially denuded this cuvee. Dugas admits that these earlier vintages were intensely filtered, and the percentage of new oak utilized was higher. Since the late nineties, filtration has been eliminated and the amount of new oak reduced, both encouraging developments. The wine reveals a more international as opposed to southern Rhone style, but it is still a very good wine. The fully mature 1989 needs to be drunk. The top cuvee of the most majestic estate in Chateauneuf du Pape, Chateau de la Nerthe, the Cuvee des Cadettes is only made in the finest years. The ideal production desired by administrator Alain Dugas is 1,000-1,500 cases. The blend changes from year to year, but it generally includes a high percentage of Mourvedre. Importer: Clicquot Imports, New York, NY; tel. (212) 888-7575