2008 Domaine François Cotat Sancerre Chavignol Rosé

Dill, tomato, and musky animal notes in the nose of the Francois Cotat 2008 Sancerre Rose lead to a somewhat spare but refreshing palate, with its unusual flavors satisfyingly persistent. This should be fascinatingly versatile, though I would plan to utilize it over the coming year. In a sign of the vintage, Francois Cotat’s lightest wine from 2009 was his rose, which weighed in at 14.5% alcohol. The Sauvignons cluster around 15%. Cotat compares this vintage with 1989, whose wines were similarly ripe and full, but aren’t exactly classic Cotat, nor the most interesting of mature Cotat wines to enjoy today. That said, there is always an element of mystery in the glass (and not only there) at this address, and I’ll gladly be made a fool of by an old Cotat wine, which might one day turn out to be a 2009. (For more information about recent developments chez Cotat, see my report in issue 172.) A Peter Vezan Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011 33 1 42 55 42 93