2005 Domaine Leroy Musigny Grand Cru

I had to draw a deep breath in anticipation of what would rise from my glass of Leroy 2005 Musigny, and in that moment Madame Leroy trenchantly observed that “it’s another world” down in there. Tea, ginger, tangerine rind, myriad sweet flowers, cherry distillate, truffles, and fraise des bois preserves are among the scents that pour forth. Bloody fresh meat and implacable chalk join the medley of fruit, floral and spice concentrates on a palate whose texture “polish,” “refinement,” or “velvet” are pitifully inadequate to describe. For all of its amazing richness, this displays more of a confident inner sweetness than a superficial sucrosity, and there is no lack of sheer energetic brightness of fruit and drive. Indeed, seatbelts would be advised before attempting to swallow this elixir, such is the phenomenal thrust of its finish. Importer: Martine’s Wines. Novato, CA; tel. (415) 883-0400

Deep, saturated ruby-red. Superripe aromas of black raspberry, spices and earth, plus a whiff of porcini mushroom. Dense, sappy and supersweet; boasts superb acidity but lacks real lift today. This seems almost in an oxidative phase, with the earth and porcini notes carrying through in the mouth. Finishes with substantial, slightly tough tannins and terrific length. I should note that some tasters who tried this huge wine several weeks before I did felt it was potentially the best of these 2005s. But on the day of my tasting this was far from clear to me.