1982 Château Giscours

The aromatics on the nose here are subtle, with ripe raspberry puree, tobacco leaf and truffle. It is not at the height of the best 1982s, but there is clear charm here, with gentle tawny autmnal brambled fruits, edges of patisserie flaky pastry, cinnamon spice, some clear warm vintage markers. In full tertiary phase, but with real charm. Light sediment, this needs to be carafed but only just before drinking, because it is still at an age that it needs to be taken care of.

The 1982 Giscours (rebottled in 2013) is showing modest bricking on the rim. The nose takes time to open and eventually offers brown spices, leather and tobacco. This is fully mature, a little rustic compared to other bottles, yet there remains adequate freshness. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannins with fine depth. Perplexingly, the bottle opened at the château seemed under the weather, though another example tasted just a few weeks later had much more florality on the nose and definitely more vim and vigour on the palate. Yet it comes from an era when the Margaux estate lost its mojo; therefore, it never quite meets expectations.

The 1982 Giscours was made during a period when this property was not at the top of its game. The result is a loosely knit wine that has a fragile hold on life. I suspect if it has not been perfectly stored, it is probably completely over the hill. The color reveals considerable bricking and amber at the edge, and the wine exhibits the ripeness that was so prevalent in this vintage, but there is not much concentration. Some cedary, herbal, sweet currant and cherry notes are noticeable, but there is little depth or finish. Drink it up. Release price: ($105.00/case)