2005 Domaine Trapet Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru

**Note: from two parcels of vines, one planted in '65 and the other in '38** A pretty and relatively high-toned nose of violets, raspberry and cherry fruit and warm earth aromas gives way to somber yet elegant flavors that are quite firmly structured but delicious, well-balanced and completely serious. A big Chapelle with excellent upside development potential. Note however that this is already shutting down and patience will be required.

The 2005 Chapelle-Chambertin – from what the Trapet family, but others too, refer to as the warmest, sweetest spot on these rocks – exudes black cherry, licorice, lily flower, and mocha. Rich, creamy, and soft on the palate (particularly for a 2005), but without being overly fat, and with a lightly-cooked aspect to its black fruits yet preserving an infectious juiciness, this offers a veritable welcome mat of a finish. While it will doubtless age positively for a decade or more, it should drink well much sooner. Also recommended: 2005 Bourgogne Passetoutgrain (86), 2005 Bourgogne Aminima ($25.00; 85), 2005 Marsannay (86). Young Jean-Louis Trapet evinces an inspiring degree of sincerity and that rarest of human virtues “humbition”. He is clearly determined to return his family’s estate to the celebrated place they occupied on the international stage for much of the late 20th century, and thinks a critical tool is the practice of biodynamics, in which the domaine was recently officially certified. Nature certainly cooperated in 2005 almost regardless of method let alone metaphysics, and this is a promising collection. The wines are not sulfured at all during their elevage, and only minimally at bottling, demanding that the typical taster re-calibrate his or her palate accordingly. A Patrick Lesec Selection (various importers), Paris Fax 011 33 4 66 37 67 23.

Full red-ruby. More obviously ripe and demonstrative on the nose than the Latricieres, showing an almost liqueur-like quality to the black fruit, mocha, coffee and game aromas. Rich and fat, with strong extract and lovely life in the mouth. Very broad, sexy wine that's classically dry but rich. Really saturates the palate and stays a while.