1999 Penfolds Grange Hermitage

Amazingly dense and young in colour, this just stretches out in front of you. Dense, dark brambled blackberry and raspberry fruits, concentrated yet with lightness of touch, powerful but finely boned tannins, with waves of tobacco, sage and spice. Comes at you with grip and personality, one to get hold of and sink into. One of only seven Grange vintages with 100% Shiraz.

Gamey and heady on the nose. Some menthol and real drive with some tannins still very much in evidence. Still a work in progress but a bit less charming than the 1989. Tastes like how I imagine beetle juice would. Still quite demanding at this stage! (JR)

This is a dense elixir, at its optimal drinking window. Notes of matcha, chashu and minty liniment. Almost port-like with incense and further aromas of the Chinese medicine cabinet across the finish. Large-framed and sweet, yet attractively herbal and souk-like exotic, mitigating any sense of excess. Not the greatest Grange, but a rich, medicinal expression with a winning, eccentric personality.