2017 Domaine de Montille Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts Christiane 1er Cru

This has a very deep-set, dark-cherry core on the nose with cocoa powder and a very rich cast of tannins that carry long, sweet and exceptionally fresh. Bathed in flavor, this is super long and powerful with a deep-set resolve that really makes for a thrilling wine with deep, sweet red and dark-fruit impact. Smooth, deep, velvety tannins give a very, very long finish. 100 per cent whole cluster, from a parcel that touches La Tâche on two sides. Try from 2023.

The 2017 Vosne-Romanée 1er Cru Les Malconsorts Cuvée Christianne is very promising, revealing a complex bouquet of sweet dark berries, rose petal, exotic spices, orange rind and dark chocolate. On the palate, the wine is medium to full-bodied, ample and layered, with a deeper, more complete profile than the regular Malconsorts, framed by firm but powdery tannins and underpinned by bright acids. This will need some time.

Barrel sample, already racked. Parcel that touches La Tâche and has the same terroir. 55% new oak. 100% whole bunch. Mid crimson. A dusty mineral note initially, then restrained stony dark fruit. A step up in intensity compared with the straight Malconsorts but still that bone-dry dark finesse to the texture, finer still in its precision, and less chewy. Incredibly elegant in structure and so tender. Long and ultra-sophisticated. (JH)