2007 Sine Qua Non Body & Soul

(71% roussanne and 29% viognier) Vivid gold color. More energetic than the previous wine, with zesty aromas of Meyer lemon, pear skin and grapefruit pith complemented by deeper notes of peach pit and yellow rose. Juicy and finely etched, with the palate displaying sweet orchard and pit fruit flavors and a strong note of grapefruit pith. Strikingly pure, lively and incisive on the finish, which clings with excellent juicy persistence.

The new cuvee of white wine, the 2007 Body and Soul, a 475-case blend of 71% Roussanne and 29% Viognier, is primarily from the 11 Confessions Vineyard. Krankl has dropped Chardonnay from the blend, and the resulting wine is a beacon for what can be achieved by blending two white Rhone varietals. About one-third new French oak is used. Honeysuckle, orange blossom, lemon oil, tropical fruit, and floral notes are found in this unctuously-textured white. Full-bodied and dry, with good underlying minerality, crispness, and an alluring freshness, it is impossible to know how such a wine will age. I just finished my last bottle of the 2001 Albino, which is aging fabulously well, and seems capable of lasting another 4-5 years. These wines are so spectacularly perfumed and intense in their youth that they are hard to resist. Passing through what looks like a junkyard (or the first or second level of hell) to get to the warehouse of both bodily and spiritual pleasures called Sine Qua Non, is a hoot and a howl, but well worth it if you can somehow wrangle an appointment with the reclusive proprietor, Manfred Krankl. Tasting here is one of the highlights of my year, and all my expectations were satisfied if not eclipsed by what Krankl has made in 2007 and 2006. Oh, and there is one utterly perfect late-released 2005. Yields in 2007 were exceptionally low, with the Syrah averaging 1.5 to 2 tons of fruit per acre, Grenache 1.3 tons per acre, and the white grapes 1.28 tons of fruit per acre. Put another way, Krankl’s highest yields averaged a meager 1.05 to 1.55 pounds of fruit per vine. That in large part explains the compelling aromatics, texture, richness, and intensity of these wines. Add to that the compulsive viticultural work and fanatical attention to detail in the winery, and it’s no wonder Sine Qua Non remains one of California’s most remarkable reference points of world-class wines. The good news is that the first wine from the new home vineyard in Ventura County, the Cumulus Vineyard, has been produced. Moreover, the continued brilliance of the other estate vineyard in the Santa Rita Hills, 11 Confessions, is confirmed. Over the last few years I have not been able to taste through the Sine Qua Non wines without coming across one that merits a three-digit score. The final wines to be bottled under the “Mr. K.” moniker include the 2006 The Nobleman and 2006 The Strawman. As some readers may know, this partnership between the famed Austrian, Alois Kracher, and Manfred Krankl has finally come to an end because of the tragic death of Alois Kracher, who fell victim to pancreatic cancer at age 49. The Mr. K. offerings have been remarkable wines that showcased the talents of both of these great winemakers. Tel. (805) 649-8901

(roughly 75% roussanne and 25% viognier; 16% alcohol) Greenish gold. Intensely mineral nose displays vibrant lemon, pear, quince and floral honey aromas. Shifts into another gear on the palate, showing exotic, deeply concentrated guava, peach nectar and exotic floral qualities. Deep and sappy, with outstanding energy and a slow burn of smoky minerals. A massive wine with uncanny focus and finesse. Manfred Krankl thinks that this should to be drunk with an old-school French lobster dish, or something along those lines. "I like rich with rich," he told me. This wine was raised completely in barriques and is scheduled for release in November of 2009.