2004 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Sauvignon Beckstoffer Dr. Crane Vineyard

Previously recommended, but no tasting note given. Paul Hobbs is one of the most brilliant consultants working in California, and he is well-placed in Argentina with a number of projects there as well. His empire is in the Russian River, and it continues to expand, with a bevy of artisinal hand-made Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, Cabernet Sauvignons, and more recently, Syrahs. These are full-throttle wines that merit serious attention. He clearly fared very well with his 2006 Chardonnay and Pinot Noir programs, and seems to have hit veritable home runs with the brilliance of these wines as well as his Cabernets and Syrahs in 2007. Paul Hobbs’ 2007 Chardonnays are crisp, full-bodied, intensely flavorful wines with higher than usual levels of vibrancy and freshness because of the acid profiles and cool growing season. In addition to the great success he enjoys with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah, Hobbs also hits all the high notes with his Cabernet Sauvignons. There are five offerings, starting with his Napa bottling, one of the better generic efforts in the marketplace. Another fabulous vintage for Paul Hobbs, the 2007 Cabernet Sauvignons may ultimately come close to resembling the great successes he has had, including his brilliant 2001s and 2002s. Tel. (707) 824-9879; Fax (707) 824-5843

Ruby-red. Strong floral notes accent spicy blackberry and boysenberry on the nose, with an exotic note of cigar box. Restrained dark berry flavors are framed by soft, fine-grained tannins and joined by gentle spice and floral pastille tones that extend through the finish. Impressive for its balance and elegance; I suspect this will repay at least a decade of cellaring.

Good ruby-red. Aromas of blackcurrant, black cherry, loam and minerals. Penetrating black fruit and mineral flavors are enlivened and extended by ripe, integrated acidity. Moderately fleshy wine with a seamless texture and rather refined tannins.