2010 Penfolds Shiraz St. Henri

Opaque ruby. Pungent, spice-tinged dark berry liqueur and cherry-vanilla scents unwind slowly while retaining very good focus. Offers palate-staining black and blue fruit flavors complicated by suggestions of mocha and lavender pastilles, with a hint of cracked pepper emerging on the back half. Closes on a smoky note, with mounting tannins and a whiplash of juicy, gently sweet dark berry preserves.

St Henri is an alternative expression of Shiraz, and counterpoint to Grange. It was created in the early 1950s (first commercial vintage 1957) and gained a new lease of life in the 1990s. It is matured in old, 1,460-litre vats that allow the wine to develop, imparting minimal, if any oak character. 100% Shiraz (in this vintage because the Shiraz was so well structured) from the Barossa Valley, McLaren Vale, Coonawarra, Adelaide Hills, Wrattonbully, Clare Valley. TA 6.7 g/l, pH 3.57. 12 months in large oak vats. 'Demands silence', says Gago (at last, I thought). Delicate and fine aroma, blueberry, mulberry and sweet spice but peppery red fruited too. Juicy core enfolded by dry firm tannins, savoury and juicy. Very distinctive. No new oak. 'A continnuum of flavour' says Gago, who thinks it will rival the 1990 and the 1971. Effortless concentration.  There's a savoury and chocolate finish. And smoky spice. Powerful but refined. All fruit-derived tannins. Fabulous fruit. (JH)

Very deep purple-black in color and showing an attractive nose of warm blackcurrants, blueberries and licorice with a complex undercurrent of mocha, cedar, menthol and grilled meat, the full-bodied 2010 St Henri Shiraz is relatively rich in the mouth, offering tons of fruit structured by firm, fine tannins and refreshing acid. It finishes with great persistence. Drink it 2015 to 2030+. Imported by Treasury Wine Estates, Napa, CA