1997 Allegrini Amarone della Valpolicella Classico

Corvina 75%, Rondinella 20%, Molinara 5%. Aged in 100% new oak. Opaque, dark ruby, with dense rim showing orange tinges. Peppery, sweet, intense, unmistakably passito, and lifted at the beginning. Hint of mould of the appasito, dark cherry and hints of cumin, earth. Savoury at first, becoming sweeter and more intense with aeration. Impressions keep changing with aeration, and show more development and age. Only the merest hint of tar. Very lively, dark fruit palate, with lots of structuring acidity. Rustic tannic core makes it a full-blown food wine. Traditional and not very sweet (5 g/l RS), but well balanced. (WS)

The estate's 1997 Amarone is undeniably showy and exuberant. Super-ripe red fruits, spices and flowers come together in this elegant, rich Amarone. Despite its opulence, the wine also shows remarkable delicacy and nuance. This is a terrific effort from Allegrini. (AG)

The spectacular, opaque purple-colored 1997 Amarone (15.4% alcohol) is from an exceptional vintage for this appellation. It possesses a gorgeous bouquet of graphite, blackberries, plums, cherries, and truffles. Although it reveals some of Amarone's pruny, raisiny, nearly over-the-top characteristics, it is full-bodied, super-rich, and concentrated, with striking purity as well as a fabulous perfume. A touch of volatile acidity gives it even more complexity and aromatic uplift. Full, voluptuous, and deep, with huge extract hiding impressive tannin levels, this winemaking tour de force will drink well for 20+ years. Readers should keep in mind that the grapes for this wine are dried for four months prior to being crushed and fermented. A Leonardo Locascio Selection, Winebow, Hohokus, NJ; tel. (201) 445-0620