2010 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Granite de la Clisson

This was terrific from the outset and has fared well in bottle. Scents of quince and lime with a whiff of white truffle put me in mind of many a similarly concentrated and high-acid 1996. Piquant nuttiness and lime peel zest enliven a polished and infectiously juicy palate. The finish here remains rapier and leaves behind stony and mouthwateringly saline residues that seem to stick to one’s teeth. (I neglected to track down a bottle of the 2012 – alarmingly absent from my cellar – for this report.)