2010 Domaine Gérard Boulay Sancerre Monts Damnes

Boulay’s 2010 Sancerre Monts Damnes is prominently lemony, with piquant rind, black tea, and an aura of chalk dust and oil present already in the nose. At least as dense, compact, firm, and bright as the corresponding regular bottling, this nevertheless picks up a greater diversity of more vivid and succulent fruit elements in the form of white currant, tangerine, and white peach; then finishes with focus and penetration: chalky; zesty; herb-tinged; and with a salty streak serving for saliva inducement. This responded beautifully to time in the air, and I expect it to gain depth and acquire some richness of patina over the next 6-8 years, as well as to keep for several more thereafter. It was fermented in a large wood foudre but thereafter raised in tank. Gerard Boulay, like Thomas Labaille, has just moved into his own spacious new warehouse-like facility along the main road from Chavignol to Sancerre. He is thrilled to at last not be constrained by tight cellar facilities, as well as to have a common location where he can show and sell, as well as raise his young wines. There has seldom, if ever, been a finer pair of vintages back to back here than 2010 and 2011, which among other things fully vindicates Boulay’s decision – which might initially have seemed too eager – to proliferate progressively more expensive cuvees. At the same time, the basic bottlings from this address – in pink as well as white – remain consistently outstanding values. (Granted, 2009 is the exception that proves the rule.) It’s a pleasure to witness the buzz beginning at last to collect both in France and abroad around this diligent grower whose wines for so long far-excelled his modest reputation. (Full disclosure: In my previous profession, I was an early importer of Boulay’s wines ... but as such, I have also had chance to taste lots of old wines from this cellar, and thus know whereof I speak!) Boulay picked from September 3-14, 2011 and began on the 25th in 2010. As if to make amends for nature’s 2009 naughtiness and any complicity for which he might have felt responsible, Boulay’s bottlings in both subsequent vintages are notably low in alcohol, rarely exceeding 13%. Thomas Calder Selection (various importers), Paris; fax 011-33-1-46-45-15-29