2008 Domaine du Tunnel Cornas

The soft, charming, pleasant, one-dimensional 2008 Cornas from proprietor Stephane Robert reveals decent concentration and enough authentic appellation character to qualify as a Cornas, but it does not have the weight, power or richness found in the better vintages. It should be drunk over the next 3-4 years. Stephane Robert has produced three brilliant white wines from the up-and-coming appellation of St.-Peray. The top white cuvee is the St.-Peray Cuvee Prestige, a blend of 80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne made from the estate’s oldest vines. All three of these white offerings are Rhone Valley Chablis-like wines with lots of chalky, earthy, mineral and crisp, honeyed citrus notes. Importer: A Jocelyn Cambier Selection, Appellation Imports, Annapolis Junction, MD; tel. (800) 221-9916

Deep ruby. Sexy aromas of blackberry and cherry compote, with complicating notes of smoked meat, olive and violet. Creamy and palate-coating dark fruit compote flavors are braced by gentle acidity and pick up spiciness with air. Tannins build with air and give grip to a long, smoky finish. This is the only bottling of Cornas that Robert made from the vintage.

Dark ruby. Dark berries and kirsch on the nose, with sexy floral and spice notes expanding with air. Demonstrates very good density and sweetness for the vintage, with dusty tannins adding support to the open-knit blackberry and mulberry flavors. A peppery note lingers on the persistent, smoky, mineral-driven finish. This got all the juice from Robert's century-old vines that he bought from Marcel Juge, who made seriously good Cornas until he sold off his vineyards in the mid-1990s.