1978 Gaja Barbaresco

Gaja’s 1978 Barbaresco has always been a bit of a brute. On this night it was less impressive than on other occasions, but I attribute that to simple bottle variation. The 1978 was aged 80% in cask for 30 months, while the remaining 20% was aged 8 months in French oak and spent the remaining 22 months in cask.

First vintage where barriques were used. Mid bricky garnet. Nose-clearing purity – liquorice, black olive, dark toffee. But there’s also herbs and garrigue. Some undergrowth but less evident than on the 88. So fine and scented. More fragrant on the mid palate as if the fruit is coming out again and back to youth, a process that is even more evident on the 74. Wonderful freshness and lovely elegant lingering finish. (JH)

Gaja’s 1978 Barbaresco was a stunning wine with which to open our foray into the Barolos and Barbarescos of this historic vintage. The Pinot-like aromas alone were captivating, but the wine was even better on the palate, where silky tannins framed a gorgeous core of red fruit, flowers, licorice and tar. This was by far the best bottle of this wine I have ever had. (AG)