2012 Philipponnat Brut Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé

The just-released 2012 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé shares the vinous, textural profile of the regular Clos des Goisses in this vintage, offering up aromas of mirabelle plum, crisp orchard fruits, white flowers, frangipane and papaya. Full-bodied, broad and fleshy, it's a rich, muscular Champagne of considerable depth and persistence.

In the past I've been almost tempted to categorise this as a white, not pink, champagne but this blend of white wine and rosé de saignée (no maceration – they don't want tannin) is slightly darker than usual so very pale pink as opposed to slightly pinkish white. 68% Pinot Noir, 32% Chardonnay. All base wine was fermented in oak. No malo. Dosage 4.5 g/l. The first vintage of this cuvée was 1999 and it's made every three years or so. 2009 was the last one. Fewer than 3,000 bottles made. Very dense and deep-flavoured yet this tastes seriously fresh – a combination of the intensity of the terroir and the high natural acidity unmitigated by malolactic conversion. (JR)

The 2012 Extra-Brut Clos des Goisses Juste Rosé is a wild, exotic wine. Kirsch, white pepper, flowers, mint and cranberry lend a gorgeous air of exoticism. As always, the Rosé is light in body gracious and all finesse. The blend is 68% Pinot Noir and 32% Chardonnay. This is the first release made with a blend of what is essentially a Blanc de Noirs base, with the ‘still red’ portion (18%) coming from a saignée. Time in the glass brings out the breadth and natural texture of the year. This is a gorgeous Rosé from Philipponat. Disgorged: March, 2022.