2006 Selbach-Oster Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese**

The “three star” 2006 Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Auslese was released late as the Selbachs were uncertain about how to label it. This nobly sweet wine exhibits more fructose and sheer sweetness than is typical chez Selbach, but one can understand it’s having been bottled as “Auslese,” because there is an uncanny lift and delicacy that somehow doesn’t fit one’s notion of “Beerenauslese.” Pungent brown- and pickling-spices along with citrus rind and high-toned distilled fruit esters give this a penetrating and obvious botrytis character. Instead of the more typical orchard fruits I associate with Sonnenuhr, this has the kiwi of Urziger Wurzgarten. The vanilla of Sonnenuhr is woven into this complex and colorful ball of yarn, but I miss the deep nuttiness. If one wants a wine with lots of overt sweetness (as well as a soothing, creamy, almost weightless finish), then this can be enjoyed now. But 12-15 years would be beneficial and several decades of life likely. The harvest almost filled the month of October, but by the standards of this large estate with holdings stretching across four communes, that is (in Johannes Selbach’s words) “super quick” and volume was down 30% from the already small 2005 harvest. Musts were sometimes fined with bentonite but never with charcoal. “This is my year of superlatives,” says Selbach. “When I think of my children and their children, and about a wine one could open in a hundred years and say ‘Wow!’ one dreams of wines from great historical vintages like 1911, 1921, 1953 ... and that in one’s own lifetime one might experience and harvest wines that would number among them. For me, that’s 2006.” Selbach took an interest in Pinot Blanc for sparkling wine, since there are some promising old vines in cooler side locations of Zeltingen’s Schlossberg. But he now thinks the fruit will probably always be too ripe for that purpose, whereas the still results are themselves promising. There are a few regional importers of certain Selbach wines, but the majority (and those whose prices are noted above) are Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel (516) 677-9300