1998 Domaine Henri Bonneau Châteauneuf-du-Pape Reserve des Celestins

Drunk with the Bonneau family after the visit, the 1998 Châteauneuf du Pape Reserve des Célestins is a heavenly elixir that’s one of the most impressive wines in the vintage. In addition, it was so young and powerful, it was hard to believe it was 18 years old. Deep ruby color, with to die for notes of kirsch, currants, beef blood, roasted herbs and crushed rocks, this incredible wine hits the palate with full-bodied richness, a powerful, structured mid-palate and a finish that leaves you begging for another sip. It was a fitting end to a terrific visit.

This wine is reminiscent of Roger Sabon’s Le Secret des Sabon, with a style that borders on Italian Amarone. Powerful, full-bodied, alcoholic flavors, redolent with truffle, meat juices, roasted herbs, tar, sweaty saddle leather, plum, and soy, are incredibly complex but also provocative, and no doubt controversial. In the mouth, the wine is fleshy, full-bodied, thick, and juicy, pushing the level of ripeness to the limit. A distinctive and singular effort, as all Henri Bonneau’s wines are, this wine is silky and velvety, but should continue to drink well for another 25-30 years.