1990 Conti Costanti Brunello di Montalcino

Costanti is unquestionably one of this appellation's most reliable producers. That being said, I have bestowed this outstanding rating more on potential than on how the wine is currently showing. It exhibits a dense dark ruby color, a non-existent nose, and mouthsearing, astringent, bitterly hard tannin. Extremely backward, dense, and impenetrable, this wine possesses considerable weight and intensity on the palate, but I am worried about the rustic side of the tannin, as well as the fact that a more realistic assessment of the wine's direction cannot be made for at least 8-10 years. Overall, 1990 appears to have sweeter, riper fruit than the 1988 vintage, but this may be an example where Costanti's 1988s, as well as his glorious 1985s surpass what he produced in 1990. Readers who love Costanti (as I do) may want to buy this wine on faith, but I wouldn't sell the farm for this particular effort. Don't touch a bottle before 2006. Importer: Empson USA, Alexandria, VA; tel. (703) 684-0900