2005 Peter Michael L'Esprit des Pavots

The second wine, which is called L’Esprit des Pavots, is a noteworthy wine. The 2005 (73% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot) shows chocolatey espresso notes, loads of berry fruit, medium body, and a soft, heady finish. This 121-acre estate with 114 producing acres of vineyard all located in Knight’s Valley continues to be at the top of their game and I can’t recommend the wines highly enough. I was surprised when I showed up at Peter Michael to find both Nicolas Morlet, who replaced his brother Luc, and Luc Morlet himself, were at my tasting. It seems that Luc is still doing consulting work with his brother firmly entrenched at the winery. This is still one of the best-run wineries in the world, and one might quibble over the fact that there are so many different cuvees of Chardonnay, but they are all subtly different in style/personality. The Morlets proclaimed to me that essentially there is very little difference in the character of the Chardonnays in 2005 and 2006, except they thought the acid levels were slightly higher in 2005 and the 2006s were riper. In any event, these are sensational Chardonnays, and readers couldn’t go wrong no matter which one they buy. Previously recommended: 2005 Sauvignon Blanc l’Apres Midi (93), 2004 Chardonnay Point Rouge (95+), 2004 Chardonnay Mon Plaisir (94), 2004 Chardonnay Ma Belle-Fille (94), 2004 Chardonnay Cuvee Indigene (97), 2004 Chardonnay La Carriere (95), 2004 Chardonnay Belle Cote (95). Tel. (707) 942-3200; Fax (707) 942-0209

Inky ruby. Open-knit cherry and blackcurrant aromas are complicated by rooty sassafras and black tea. Round, full and supple, with powerful cherry and dark berry liqueur flavors. This shows more power than finesse, with a distinct cherry skin quality on the lightly tannic finish.