2009 Domaine Santa Duc Côtes du Rhône Les Vieilles Vignes

The 2009 Cotes du Rhone Vieilles Vignes, which I liked last year, continues to drink very well. Notes of pepper, garrigue, black cherry and currants along with some tobacco leaf and underbrush are all present in this medium-bodied wine, meant for consumption over its first 2-3 years. One of the long-time benchmarks for superb Gigondas is Yves Gras’ estate on the high plateau several kilometers outside the entrance to this old Roman village. He has also expanded into the negociant end of the business with his Santa Duc Selections, which are very reliable wines worth a serious look. Until 2007, there were consistently two cuvees of Gigondas made in top vintages. With the finest vintages, Gras has now added a 100% Grenache cuvee called Grand Grenache 66, from a tiny parcel of vines and essentially just one small foudre. Turning back to the basic wines, they offer good value and are top-flight wines. The newest baby for Yves Gras comes from his purchase of 1.23 hectares (essentially about 3+ acres) of old vines planted with 100% Grenache in the Chateauneuf du Pape lieu-dit in the very north known as Font du Loup. Importer: Robert Kacher Selections, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 832-9083

An excellent red, the 2009 Santa Duc Selections Côtes du Rhône Les Vieilles Vignes is a blend of 60% old vine Grenache, 20% Syrah, and 10% Cinsault, Counoise, and Carignan that’s aged all in tank. Showing a deep, layered bouquet of black cherry, crushed rock, toasted spice, and cola, this medium-bodied, concentrated Côtes du Rhône delivers a serious mouthful of fruit, as well as plenty of structure, and a classic, dry finish. There’s loads of minerality here, and this has a slightly earthy, masculine profile. While it’s showing well and certainly delicious, I think it has enough structure and depth to age for 4-6 years. Very well done and a serious wine, especially for the price.