2015 Domaine Sylvain Cathiard Chambolle-Musigny Clos de l'Orme

Dark red. Very ripe aromas of dark fruits, spices and minerals complicated by hints of bitter chocolate and game; this wine finished its malolactic fermentation in May and is more en place now than some of his other '15s, according to Cathiard. Densely packed but juicy and light on its feet; a very dark style of Chambolle-Musigny but with no overripe character. This wine and Cathiard's two other village offerings come across as distinctly leesy today owing to their later malos. Finishes penetrating and long, with serious but well-buffered tannins and a note of licorice.

The 2015 Chambolle-Musigny Clos de l'Orme, raised in 50% new oak, has a slightly more backward bouquet than the Nuits Saint Georges Villages, even though the malolactic finished a little earlier. The palate is medium-bodied with fine, slightly grainy tannin. There is a slight reduction here, but it dissipates and there is wonderful freshness and precision here. Superb, especially for a "mere" village cru.