2001 Gaja Langhe Costa Russi

The 2001 Costa Russi is classy and gracious. Sweet dark berries, flowers, spices and licorice are woven together beautifully in this supple Costa Russi. The tannins could use more bottle age to soften further, but the Costa Russi is hugely attractive even today. Sweet tobacco, spices and crushed flowers linger in the empty glass. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2033. Angelo Gaja isn’t the talkative type too often these days. Most of the time I am greeted, left alone in a room to taste, and then greeted again before I leave. On this day, though, Gaja started talking about vintages, and in particular the misconception that wines from hot years don’t age. Gaja cited 1961, a warm year in Piedmont, and one of the most legendary at the time. The wines aged just fine, added Gaja. What struck me most, though, was how clear Gaja’s recollection was of events that transpired fifty years ago. I know only one other person in Piedmont who has a similarly sharp memory that goes that far back. What does that have to do with these 2001s? Not much, except that it seemed like an interesting anecdote to share. Importer: Terlato Wines International, Lake Bluff, IL; tel. (847) 604 8900

The 2001 Costa Russi is a decidedly more masculine wine, showing a richer color along with a dark nose of cherries in liqueur, tar and minerals. It is round and soft on the palate, offering generous amounts of dark fruit and toasted oak flavors with much persistence. Costa Russi is typically the most accessible of the single-vineyard wines, and the 2001 is true to type.

(the 2001 crus were bottled in May of this year) Good deep red-ruby. Sappy, primary black fruit and mineral aromas, with hints of violet and licorice. Lush, opulent and suave, but with noteworthy energy in the mouth, thanks to brisk, harmonious acidity. Very long and firm on the back end, with the wine's tannins currently covered by sappy fruit.