2023 Domaine Huet Haut Lieu Vouvray Le Mont Sec

Displaying a bright straw hue, the 2023 Vouvray Sec Le Haut-Lieu is expressive on opening, with aromas of crushed apples, river rock, chamomile, and Meyer lemon. The palate offers wonderful balance, with a supple texture, even acidity, and stony underpinnings, as well as a delicate touch of bitter almond on the finish. It offers a great deal of enjoyment at this early stage, and while it’s ready to enjoy now, it should also provide longevity over the coming 6-8 years. It’s a refreshing departure from my regular coverage to review the new releases from the historic Domaine Huet in the Loire Valley. I have long been a fan of these wines and was especially fond of working with them in my days as a restaurant wine director, as the estate’s incredibly versatile range of wines presents endless pairing opportunities. This holds especially true for their Demi-Sec offerings, which were a secret weapon for challenging savory dishes with a kiss of spice, where other options, such as Riesling, could potentially dominate and overpower the dish. I routinely used the Vouvray Moelleux Le Mont on our tasting menu to accompany various preparations of foie gras terrines, which often had splashes of brighter accents such as pink peppercorn, rhubarb, or summer peaches. It was a great way to play into the classic pairing of Sauternes, without the wine being too weighted and cloying with sweetness, especially as this was usually the second course in a multi-course menu. It also did exceptionally well when paired with not-too-sweet desserts, such as tangy fruit tarts. The new releases from 2023 do not disappoint.