2008 Domaine de Montille Vosne-Romanée Les Malconsorts 1er Cru

Good deep red. A touch of reduction to the aromas of black fruits, smoked meat and minerals; interestingly, this was less high-pitched than the 2009 samples I tasted before it. Then large-scaled, rich and saline; chewy but not a sweet style--or is it simply closed today? Firm acidity carries the wine's explosive fruit through a rich, chewy finish that features saline and peppery nuances and remains light on its feet.

(100% whole clusters; from vines averaging 50 years of age) Good deep red. Wonderful nuance and finesse to the aromas of raspberry, smoke, pepper and crushed stone. Pure, silky wine with compelling inner-mouth perfume of raspberry, tangy Oriental spices and subtle underbrush. Finishes juicy and extremely long, with wonderfully broad, fine tannins.

The 2008 Vosne-Romanee Les Malconsorts caresses the palate with sweet hard candy, spices and goudron. The wine turns quite a bit richer and denser with air as it reveals its pedigree and class. The Malconsorts fills out beautifully on the long, polished finish. De Montille used 100% whole clusters here. Anticipated maturity: 2018-2033. May 2011, www.robertparker.com