2013 Domaine de la Pépière Muscadet Sèvre et Maine Granite de la Clisson

Bottled after two years on the lees, this leads with intimations of the profound mineral character delivered on a polished, subtly citric palate: stone, alkali, iodine and peat-like smokiness. Mouth-coating and mouthwatering persistence is joined to consummate refreshment. This represents an impressive accomplishment for its vintage (in which Branger and Ollivier elected to declassify the corresponding Château-Thébaud).