2010 Château Les Ormes-de-Pez

This was in a carafe for at least five hours before tasting, and is a good reminder that you should not be nervous to leave even non-classified 2010s in contact with oxygen - the architecture can easily hold the fruit. Pretty spicy overall, full of tannic grip, dark and plush plum and greengage fruits, sage, cinnamon and crayon. Delicious, such a great value wine, one of the 'open now' wines of the tasting, exactly what you hope for when heading towards this price point, and so rarely get.

The 2010 Les Ormes de Pez has a ripe and fruit-driven bouquet with tons of wild strawberry, cranberry and undergrowth notes, well defined if not quite as complex as its peers. The palate is medium-bodied with fine grain tannins. Good acidity, nicely proportioned with a touch of spice on the finish, this constitutes one of the more approachable Saint-Estèphe wines, with the substance to suggest that it will drink over the next 10-15 years. Tasted blind at Farr Vintners 10-Year On Bordeaux horizontal.

Deep garnet colored, the 2010 Ormes de Pez slips sensuously from the glass with seductive blackberry pie, Black Forest cake and kirsch scents plus nuances of candied violets, hoisin, dark chocolate and licorice. Full-bodied, rich and plush in the mouth, it has a fantastic line of freshness lifting all the decadent fruit to a long, energy-sparked finish.