2004 Domaine Jean Grivot Clos de Vougeot Grand Cru

Good full medium red. Aromas of cherry, raspberry and red licorice lifted by a floral topnote. Lush and broad in texture but a bit youthfully inexpressive, showing less early sweetness than most of the 2004s at this address. This is almost tough for the year. Here the tannins are more obvious but ripe. The wine's chewy texture and mouthcoating finish suggest that it will give pleasure with four or five years of cellaring, but like the Boudots this sappy wine is difficult to taste today.

A reasonably ripe nose features earth and spice with a background note of crushed herbs complements the big, rich and youthfully austere flavors that are precise, bold, intense, powerful and chewy with an earthy, well-structured and impressively long if slightly edgy finish. This is not as generous as the Beaux Monts and will need time to round out as the austerity of the firm finale is positively Cistercian at present.

Bright, deep red. Strong spicy oak on the nose, along with redcurrant, minerals and vanilla. Sweet, supple and vinous, with fairly intense flavors of plum and redcurrant. Today this doesn't have the same high pitch as a few of the other Grivot 2004s. Finishes with substantial tannins and rather idiosyncratic white fruit notes of pineapple and grapefruit.