2013 Abreu Cabernet Sauvignon Madrona Ranch

The 2013 Madrona Ranch hits the magic three-digit score. It is literally a 30- to 45-year wine in itself. It behaves like a ripe, complex first growth Pauillac, with blackberry and crème de cassis, a touch of licorice, black truffle, pen ink and graphite. Incredibly fragrant, extremely full-bodied, with abundant tannin but also enormous fruit extract and richness, it is an amazing wine and a profound effort from Abreu and Grimes.

A huge, brooding wine, the 2013 Madrona Ranch possesses stunning depth, intensity and pure power. That's the good news. The bad news is that readers will have to be exceptionally patient, as the 2013 won't be ready to drink anytime soon. Huge swaths of tannin support a core of deep black fruit in a virile, potent wine that will require considerable cellaring. With time in the glass, the aromatics emerge reluctantly, revealing the textured dark red fruit that is typical of this renowned St. Helena site.

Smoky black cherries, dark chocolate, and boysenberry really get things going in the right direction. There is good intensity, lift and density with a multi-layered finish, silky tannins and ripe, sweet, dark berries galore. The wine was made from a blend of 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 38% Cabernet Franc, 8% Petit Verdot and 5% Merlot.