2007 Domaine de Bila-Haut Occultum Lapidem

From Grenache, Carignan, and Syrah planted in a mixture of gneiss, schist, and chalk, and vinified half each in tank and barrel (demi-muids as well as barriques), the 2007 Cotes du Roussillon Villages Latour de France Occultum Lapidem smells of violets, toasted walnuts, cassis, licorice, rosemary, roasted meats, and sea breeze. The influence of Syrah – which, understandably, tends to be featured in slightly larger percentages in Bila-Haut wines than in most of Roussillon – is very much in evidence. Fascinating suggestions of brine and iodine, resinous southern French herbs and exotic spices, inform the deeply fruited as well as richly carnal palate, where a caressing polish and tender, ultra-refined tannins make themselves subtly felt. The finish here is bright and refreshing even as it is profoundly rich. If there are two words I would use, Troullier took them right out of my mouth: “dense,” and “active.” I imagine this incredible value and remarkable performance for its vintage will be well worth following for 5-7 years. For Robert Parker’s review of the 2006 vintage of this wine – prior to bottling – see issue 173. Michel Chapoutier’s outpost in Roussillon – begun in 1993 and moved into its spacious current facilities in 2000 – operates under the immediate direction of exceptionally talented winemaker Gilles Troullier. With around 150 acres and more than 30 parcels of largely old vines under contract (including some exciting new material in 2008) this is a major source for some of the most carefully crafted wines and among the finest values in the region. It is also one of many French addresses where there has been a recent move in the direction of larger barrels (especially demi-muids) and to more sophisticated forms of concrete, and a corresponding de-emphasis of stainless steel tanks and (225-liter) barriques. Troullier opines that after six years of biodynamic regimen on these wines (which includes working many of the parcels by horse) there has recently been a “crescendo in quality.” Without hazarding an opinion on its causes, that crescendo certainly had my nose and palate ringing when I left here! For reviews of other Roussillon Chapoutier projects, please see under Agly Brothers as well as Chapoutier. Importer: H. B. Wine Merchants, New York, NY; tel. (917) 402-0456