1998 Domaine Méo-Camuzet Vosne-Romanée Aux Brulees 1er Cru

Good medium red. More decadent on the nose than the '99, offering scents of redcurrant, coffee, spices and leather. Fat and lush on entry, then fairly dry in the middle, with the leathery quality carrying through on the palate. Sweetness builds with air, and the tooth-dusting tannins are ripe, but elements of herbs, mint and dried leaves give the finish a dusty quality. Meo describes 1998 as a very difficult harvest, and noted that this wine only became drinkable a couple years ago.