2005 Penfolds Shiraz RWT

Just brilliant on all accounts, the 2005 Penfolds Shiraz RWT is 100% Barossa Valley Shiraz that was aged for 14 months in 70% new and 30% one-year-old French oak hogsheads. It delivers a classic, savory array of creamy blackberry and crème de cassis styled fruits that are supported by underlying notions of graphite, vanilla, smoked duck, and roasted meats. Intense, pure, and delineated on the nose, it is every bit as good on the palate and possesses a full-bodied, rich texture, brilliant concentration, and a deep, layered feel that carries through the structured finish. This is certainly brilliant now, yet it will be even better in 3-5 years, and have a very long drink window. Count me impressed.

Saturated ruby. Broad, highly aromatic bouquet of blackberry, blueberry, cherry-vanilla and fresh flowers. Spicy red and dark berry liqueur flavors coat the palate, with silky tannins providing firmness. This juicy, suave, very fresh wine finishes with vibrant fruit and excellent length. Delivers serious flavor impact with no excess weight or ripeness. Bet on this rewarding at least a decade of aging.

RWT (= Red Wine Trial) is a trial that is rather long in the tooth now. It started in 1997 in response to the Barossa’s growing réclame, and that réclame was celebrated with French rather than American oak. To be honest I’d forgotten this when I first tasted it but the extra focus and tightness on the nose compared with the other reds here is evident from first sniff. Dark crimson, meaty nose without any excessive alcohol obvious on the nose – dryer and tighter somehow. But on the palate the fruit (presumably some old vine stuff) is very rich and round and even slightly salty – some syrup and ground-up tar and gravel is what I got on the palate but I’ve now read what winemaker Peter Gago gets on this: 'fresh blueberry (pie) and blood plum. A barrel-fermented vapour net entraps scents of cinnamon and nutmeg, violet and bergamot. Flirting strawberry yoghurt (creamy) and freshly cut rhubarb aromatics unwittingly entice'. Crikey. I found it not at all sweet – drier than most of these wines – but certainly strong flavours that reminded me rather of gravel essence. Acidity marked but not jagged. (JR)